Pentacryl FAQs

Q: How much PENTACRYL is needed?

A: The amount of PENTACRYL the wood will absorb depends upon the type and size of the wood. For very dense grained hardwoods, it will take as little as 3-4 ounces per board foot and for very soft, open grained wood it will take as much as 8-10 ounces per board foot. Refer to the Wood Calculator on our website to help determine the amount needed. 

 

Q: Does PENTACRYL absorb all the way through the wood?

A: Yes. PENTACRYL will absorb all the way through the wood by soaking or brushing/rolling it on. The time it takes depends upon the size and type of wood. Keep in mind that most of the absorption is through the end grain.  When using the brushing method, keep applying until the wood will no longer absorb any more PENTACRYL. See the product directions for treatment information.

 

Q: Is complete saturation necessary?

A: In most cases the wood should be completely saturated with PENTACRYL.  In some cases however, woods that are quite stable by themselves may only require several coatings to the surface, while other woods with wild grain, high tension, a lot of exposed end grain or those that are unstable such as fruitwoods, require full saturation.

 

Q:  How do I know when PENTACRYL is done soaking?

A:  Soaking wood 24 hours per inch of thickness is generally sufficient.  Soak larger pieces 48 hours per inch of thickness.

 

Q: Can too much PENTACRYL be applied?

A: No. Too much PENTACRYL cannot be applied. The wood will absorb so much until it is saturated. Any excess can be cleaned off the surface. Note: If using the soaking method, any PENTACRYL left over in the soak can be reused to treat other wood in the soak tank or strained and poured back into the original container to use later.

 

Q: How long will it take PENTACRYL treated wood to dry?

A:  Air drying wood can be a slow process and there is not a specific answer to the time it will take. Drying time will vary depending on the original moisture content - how much water is in the wood to start with - the temperature and relative humidity where the wood is being dried, plus the size and type of wood.

Since PENTACYL displaces moisture in the wood (by pushing the water out), it will speed the drying time by approximately 30%. 

If the piece is a turning that is thin, it may be dry enough to finish in 1-2 months. If it is a thick carving, slab or other larger piece, it may take up to 1-2 years to completely dry.

 

Q: Why does the wood need to dry slowly?

A: Wood treated with PENTACRYL must be allowed to dry very slowly.  If dried too quickly, you will get rapid cracking. Ideal drying conditions are between 55°-65°F and 35-50% relative humidity in an area with no direct heat and away from sunlight and any air movement (we do not recommend using fans).

To slow drying, wood can be covered with a cardboard box (leave a gap on the bottom to allow air to still reach the wood), loosely wrapped in brown paper or buried in dry wood shavings.  END GRAIN SEALER can also be applied to treated wood to slow drying.

 

Q: Can a moisture meter be used?

Yes. To help determine if the wood is dry, a moisture meter can be used as PENTACRYL will not affect the reading.  Keep in mind a moisture meter with prongs will only read the moisture content of the wood surface and is not a good indicator for measuring the inside of large pieces.

 

Q: Can wood treated with PENTACRYL be stained and finished with conventional finishes and stains?

A:  Yes.  Wood treated with PENTACRYL can be finished with urethane varnishes, lacquers, tung oil, linseed oil, and waxes – all have been successfully used. The wood can also be stained with aniline dyes or oil stains. We do not recommend applying water-based stains and finishes as these products add moisture back into the wood and may leave the surface tacky.

Prior to sealing, be sure you have allowed the wood to thoroughly dry, meaning all the water is out.  If a finish is applied before the wood is completely dry, moisture will have no way to escape, and the wood will eventually rot from the inside.

 

Q: Can a colorant be added to PENTACRYL?

A: Yes. A colorant can be added directly to PENTACRYL. Analine dyes, oil base dyes and stains, and pigments may be mixed with PENTACRYL. Again, we do not recommend water based products. The amount used depends upon the desired effect.  Test the colorant in a small amount of PENTACRYL first.

 

Q: Can wood treated with PENTACRYL be glued?

A: Yes. Wood treated with PENTACRYL can be glued. Tests have been successful using carpenter’s glue, cyanoacrylates, and epoxies. The wood surface may need to be cleaned with solvent first. Be sure that the solvent has completely evaporated prior to gluing.

 

Q: Can wood treated with PENTACRYL be wood burned?

A: Yes. Wood treated with PENTACRYL can be wood burned. Be sure that the treated wood is completely dry first.

 

Q: Can treated wood be turned and carved?

A: Yes. The wood can be turned and carved.  PENTACRYL makes it easier because it also acts as a lubricant for your tools until it dries. 

 

Q: Will wood treated with PENTACRYL weigh more?

A:  Depending upon the type of wood, it will weigh only slightly more when the wood is dry. On average, a cubic foot of wood will weigh approximately 6-8 ounces more than wood that is untreated.

 

Q: Should wood be sanded before or after treating with PENTACRYL?

A: It’s best to treat the wood soon after it is cut.  So, sanding can be done after it is treated and dried. If the sandpaper clogs up, it is an indication that the wood is not dry yet.

 

Q: Will PENTACRYL stabilize rotted or spalted wood?

A: PENTACRYL is not intended for use on rotted or spalted wood as these areas act like a sponge, absorb the product and prevent the

wood from drying. See information on POLYCRYL for hardening soft, punky or spalted wood.  PENTACRYL and POLYCRYL can be used together on the respective areas of wood.

 

Q: Does PENTACRYL reduce shrinkage and distortion?

A: Yes. PENTACRYL does reduce the shrinkage up to 600% depending on the orientation of the wood grain.  Quarter grain shrinks less than flat grain. Distortion is also significantly reduced.

 

Q: Does PENTACRYL change the color of the wood?

A:  In most wood species, PENTACRYL will help keep the wood looking natural and bright.  In some cases, it may alter the color slightly.  Wood such as Birch that has a very light color and highly absorbent bark, may leave stains on the bark. In woods with a high tannic acid content, there may be a slight graying on the surface.  This is only superficial and will sand off when the wood is dry. 

 

Q: Can PENTACRYL be used to treat fruitwoods?

A: Yes. PENTACRYL can be used to treat fruitwoods which have a high amount of tension and can be challenging to stabilize.

 

Q: What if mold starts growing on my treated wood?

A: If the wood is left in plastic too long, or is being dried in a high humid area, you may see mold growing.  This is generally just on the surface and can be treated with Lysol or another fungicide to eliminate the mold spores.  The mold can also be sanded off when the wood has dried.

 

Q: Can PENTACRYL be used on bowls and eating utensils?

A: Although PENTACRYL is considered safe, it is not registered and approved as food grade. Therefore, we cannot endorse or recommend that it can be used on items intended for direct use with food or beverage.

 

Q: If PENTACRYL freezes, will it lose its properties?

A: No. PENTACRYL has been run through 16 freeze-thaw cycle tests. Some solids may settle after being frozen 2-3 times, but will readily disperse when slowly brought back to room temperature and shaken

 

Q: Will PENTACRYL keep the bark on?

A: It will help. Since PENTACRYL will help to keep the wood from shrinking and pulling away from the bark. For best results to keep bark on, the tree should be cut during the dormant period (winter) when the sap stops running and the wood has hardened off.

 

Q: Does the odor of PENTACRYL remain in the wood after the wood has dried?

A: Once completely dry, 95-100% of the odor will dissipate.

 

Q: Will PENTACRYL kill bugs in the wood?

A: PENTACRYL does not contain an insecticide. If your wood has bugs, we recommend treating it first with Borate.  This is a product that will kill insects and also act as a fungicide to prevent mold growth. Note, PENTACRYL treated wood will not attract insects.

 

Q: How can I clean brushes used to apply PENTACRYL or clean up a spill?

A: Brushes can be cleaned with soapy water or mineral solvent. Small spills can be wiped up with paper towels.

Polycryl FAQs

Q: Why is it necessary to put on different mixtures of POLYCRYL and water?

A: The reason for starting out with a thin mixture, is to get the deepest penetration.  On most wood, if POLYCRYL is applied in its concentrated form, it will block the surface and prevent further penetration. 

 

Q: Can POLYCRYL be used as a concentrate without diluting?

A: In some cases when the wood is extra soft and punky, POLYCRYL can be used in it’s concentrated form.  Note that POLYCRYL is not intended to be used to fill gaps in wood that has become decayed.

 

Q: Will Polycryl yellow over time?

A:  No, POLYCRYL is lightfast and does not yellow or darken in the wood with time.

 

Q: What if the wood is soft in some areas and hard in others?  Will POLYCRYL work for this application?

A: POLYCRYL is a large molecular polymer and will only penetrate the soft and punk areas of wood.  Any build up of POLYCRYL on the hard areas will just lay on the surface and can be wiped off with a damp cloth.

 

Q: Can POLYCRYL be used as a finish?

A: No, POLYCRYL should not be used as a finish.  POLYCRYL remains moisture sensitive and can be washed off with water.  For this reason, wood should be finished after treating with POLYCRYL.

 

Q: What type of finish can be used with POLYCRYL?

A: We recommend using an oil or alcohol-based finish.  Water based products add moisture into the wood and can leave the surface tacky.

 

Q: Can wood treated with POLYCRYL be glued?

A: Yes, wood treated with POLYCRYL can be glued.  However, be sure the wood is completely dry prior to gluing.

 

Q: Do I need to use PENTACRYL if I am using POLYCRYL?

A: POLYCRYL is used on wood that is degraded and degraded wood has less stress, therefore, in most cases, PENTACRYL is not necessary to stabilize the wood, but can be used after POLCYRYL if needed on other areas of green wood.

 

Q: Can POLYCRYL be used on bowls and eating utensils?

A: POLYCRYL is not registered and approved as food grade, therefore, we cannot recommend or endorse that it be used on items intended for use with food or beverage.

 

Q:  How fast can I dry wood treated with POLYCRYL?

A: Wood treated with POLYCRYL should be dried slowly.  Remember that moisture has been added to the wood.  Rapid drying can cause checking and/or cracking. A good method of slowing down the drying is to place the treated wood (small pieces) in a cardboard box and loosely fold the top or buried in saw shavings. This will slow the drying and still allow the wood to breathe.  Large pieces should be put in a cool area away from direct air movement and heat.

 

Q: What is the best method of applying POLYCRYL?

A: The method used depends on the size of the wood you are treating.  Smaller pieces can be soaked in POLYCRYL, while larger pieces can be treated by brushing POLYCRYL on. 

Keep in mind that most of the absorption is through the end grain.  If you are treating bowls, pour the first diluted solution into the bowl and periodically add more POLYCRYL to the solution until the desired concentrate has been reached.  Be sure to keep the bowl covered with plastic during treatment to prevent evaporation.  To prevent mold growth, do not leave the wood covered in plastic longer than 4-5 days.  Remove the plastic when drying the wood.

 

Q: Can POLYCRYL be reused?

A: Yes, the POLYCRYL left from soaking can be reused to treat other wood.  However, do NOT pour the used POLYCRYL back into the concentrated container.

 

Q: Does freezing harm POLYCRYL?

A: No, freezing will not harm POLYCRYL.  If it does freeze, be sure to bring the POLYCRYL back to room temperature slowly prior to using (do not heat).  Note: to ensure proper penetration, wood should also be at room temperature (not cold or frozen) when treating.

 

Q: What is the shelf life of POLYCRYL?

A: POLYCRYL has an indefinite shelf life.  Be sure to keep it stored in a closed container in a cool place.

 

Q: What can I use to clean brushes used to apply POLYCRYL or to clean up a spill?

A: POLYCRYL can be cleaned off/up with soapy water or a mineral solvent.

 

Wood Juice FAQs

Q: What is the difference between WOOD JUICE and PENTACRYL and how do I know which one to use?

A: Both products are wood stabilizers. However, they are each formulated differently.  PENTACRYL was developed to treat green or freshly cut wood with a higher moisture content, typically above 25-30%.  The wetter the wood, the better PENTACRYL will work. 

WOOD JUICE is formulated to treat dryer wood with a lower moisture content. It is formulated to compensate for the difference in the reduced amount of water in the wood. It is important to use on wood with moisture content between 15%-25%.  Drier wood (moisture content below 15%) will only need 1-2 coats. DO NOT saturate wood that is completely dry as WOOD JUICE will not work properly and just sit in the wood leaving it tacky.

When to use WOOD JUICE:

• Low Moisture Content: A general rule is to use WOOD JUICE if the wood moisture content is less than 25%, but greater than 15%.
• Naturally Stable Wood: WOOD JUICE can be used on some green wood that is stable by itself such as Basswood or Aspen.
• Thin Cuts of Wood: Turned wood that has thin walls (such as bowls), wood that is carved thin or wood that is cut thin (such as veneer) is good for WOOD JUICE since much of the tension is already relieved in these cuts.
• Older Wood: Use WOOD JUICE on older, raw wood that is dry and you would like to condition and rejuvenate it. Use just 1 coat for this. Note: WOOD JUICE will NOT penetrate into wood that has a sealer applied.

 

Q: How much WOOD JUICE do I need?

A: The amount of WOOD JUICE needed will depend upon the moisture content, type and thickness of the wood.  Typically wood with a moisture content below 10-15%, will only require 1-2 applications.  However, wood more than 2-3 inches thick, or with a moisture content between 15-25%, may require 2-3 applications.

 

Q: How long will it take for treated wood to dry?

A: There is not a specific answer for drying time. Drying time differs depending on the original moisture content, temperature, relative humidity (where the wood is being dried), type of wood and the thickness. If the piece is a turning that is finished thin, then it may be dry enough to apply a sealer in 1-2 months. If the piece is large, like a carving or cross-cut section, it may take 6 months or more to completely dry. Remember, it is the moisture/water in the wood that needs to dry. Note that the wood must be dried slowly (especially hardwood/fruitwood) in an unheated area away from direct sunlight and any excessive air movement. 

To help slow drying, wood can be placed in a cardboard box with the top loosely closed or wrapped in brown paper.  Cardboard can also be cut and taped to the end grain.

By displacing the remaining moisture in the wood, WOOD JUICE does help to speed the drying process by up to 30%.

Allow 1-2 weeks for wood to dry that has 1-2 coats of WOOD JUICE applied (especially prior to applying a sealer).

To help determine if the wood is dry, you can use a moisture meter as WOOD JUICE will not affect the reading.  A prong moisture meter will only read the moisture content of the surface and is not a good indicator for measuring the inside of large, thicker pieces.

 

Q: Can WOOD JUICE treated wood be Kiln Dried? 

A:  Yes, WOOD JUICE treated wood can finish drying in a kiln.  Since kiln temperatures and humidity levels vary, it is recommended to run some test pieces first.

 

Q: Can wood treated with WOOD JUICE be painted and finished with conventional finishes?

A:  Yes.  Wood treated with WOOD JUICE can be painted and/or finished with urethane varnishes, lacquers, tung oil, linseed oil, and waxes - all have been successfully tested. The wood can also be stained with analine dyes or oil stains. We recommend not using water-based products as they add moisture back into the wood and may leave the wood surface tacky.

Be sure that WOOD JUICE has thoroughly dried and to lightly clean the surface of the wood with a solvent, mineral spirits, or acetone if needed, before finishing.

 

Q: Can a colorant be added to WOOD JUICE?

A: Yes. A colorant can be added to WOOD JUICE. Analine dyes, oil base dyes and stains, and pigments can be mixed with WOOD JUICE prior to treating.  Again, we recommend oil or alcohol-based products as water-based products can leave the wood surface tacky.  The amount of colorant added will depend upon the desired effect.  Be sure to test a sample piece first.

 

Q: Can too much WOOD JUICE be applied?

A: Yes, too much can be applied. WOOD JUICE needs moisture to work properly, so if the wood is saturated, WOOD JUICE will just sit in the wood like a sponge.

Again, do not saturate wood with a moisture content below 15% (just 1-2 brushing applications is all that is needed).

 

Q: Will wood treated with WOOD JUICE weigh more?

A: Depending upon the type and density of the wood, it will weigh only slightly more when the wood is dry. On average, a cubic foot of wood could weigh approximately 3-5 ounces more than wood that was untreated.

 

Q: Will turning and carving be easier with wood treated with WOOD JUICE?

A: Yes. The wood will turn and carve easier because WOOD JUICE also acts as a lubricant for your tools until it dries.  Note that before sanding, the wood should be completely dry.  If the sandpaper clogs up or is gummy, it is an indication that the wood is not yet fully dry.

 

Q: Will WOOD JUICE stabilize rotted or spalt wood?

A: WOOD JUICE is not intended for use on rotted or spalted wood as this area is porous and the WOOD JUICE will not work properly. However, in some cases, just 1 application can be applied to help stabilize this wood if needed.  Do not soak your wood, as too much WOOD JUICE in this type of wood will not dry properly.  

Note that WOOD JUICE will not harden soft areas. See information on POLYCRYL for hardening soft areas of spalted or punky wood.

 

Q: Does WOOD JUICE change the color of the wood?

A: In some cases, it may alter the color slightly in light colored wood such as Birch.  WOOD JUICE will generally enhance the wood grain while leaving it looking natural.

 

Q: Can wood treated with WOOD JUICE be glued?

A: Yes, wood treated with WOOD JUICE can be glued. Tests have been successful using carpenter’s glue, cyanoacrylates, and epoxies. Again, if needed, it is important to clean the wood surfaces with solvent or mineral spirits and be sure that the solvent has completely evaporated (dried) prior to gluing.

 

Q: Can WOOD JUICE be used on bowls and eating utensils?

A: WOOD JUICE is not approved and registered as food grade. Therefore, we cannot recommend or endorse that it be used on items intended for use with food or beverage.

 

Q: If WOOD JUICE freezes, will it lose its properties?

A: No. WOOD JUICE has been run through several freeze-thaw cycles, some solids may settle out after being frozen 2-3 times but will readily disperse when slowly brought back to room temperature and shaken well.  Note: do not heat frozen WOOD JUICE, let it thaw at room temperature.

 

Q: Will WOOD JUICE keep the bark on?

A: It will help. Since WOOD JUICE will reduce the shrinkage of the wood, it will help to keep the wood from pulling away from the bark. However, there is no guarantee that the bark will stay on long term.  For best results to keep bark on, the tree should be cut during the dormant period (winter) when the sap stops running and the wood has hardened off.

 

Q: Can wood treated with WOOD JUICE be wood burned?

A: Yes. WOOD JUICE treated wood can be wood burned, however, be sure that the treated wood is completely dry first.

 

Q: Does the odor of WOOD JUICE remain in the wood once the wood has dried?

A: 95-100% of the odor will dissipate. The time it takes depends upon the size and type of wood and how long for the wood to completely dry.

 

Q: What can I use to clean brushes that were used to apply WOOD JUICE or to clean up a spill?

A: WOOD JUICE can be cleaned off/up with soapy water, or a mineral solvent.